FEEDING
Most French Angoras require 1 cup of commercial pellets per day, at a 16-17% protein level to support wool growth. Giant Angoras require 1 1/2 cups, Satin Angoras 1 cup, and English Angoras 3/4 cups feed per day. During the winter when caloric needs are on the increase, this amount may slowly be increased by 1/4- 1/2 cup. Lactating does will require 1 1/2 cups for small litters and 2 or more cups for larger litters (in the commercial breeds). Babies must be free-fed (have food available throughout the day) up until the ages of 5 1/2-6 months.
Hay is critically important to the health of an angora rabbit's digestive tract, providing roughage to help prevent the build-up of wool and feed in the stomach. Alfalfa hay is particularly high in protein, but not preferred for daily use alongside commercial pellets. Timothy hay is the best choice for daily supplementation, supplying critically needed fiber for the prevention of woolblock. When purchasing timothy hay, be certain that bales are fresh and sweet smelling, with no dust or moldy odors present. Discard hay that is black or damp, has bugs in it, or is obviously gray and old.
All bunnies should be provided one handful of hay per day with the exception of lactating does and rabbits under 6 months of age, who should have access to hay at all times. Deposit handfuls loosely into hay hoppers attached to the front of each cage or push it through the cage wire itself. Try to avoid piling hay onto the cage floor so as to prevent soiling with urine and feces. During times of molting, angoras will trail belly wool into piles that are deposited on the floor, increasing the likelihood of woolblock when that hay gets consumed. Always remove soiled or leftover hay from each cage daily before replacing it with a new, fresh handful.
To keep the digestive tract healthy and clean, many breeders employ 'hay and birdseed' days on a weekly or monthly basis in lieu of pellets. Research has shown that the occurrence of woolblock is often directly related to the overfeeding of a pelleted ration, or the binders that are used to compress the feed into pelleted form. Replacing pellets one day a week with hay, greens, and 1/2--3/4 cup of birdseed (without corn) can substantially lessen woolblock symptoms. Some breeders also supplement high dosage papaya or bromelain tablets in addition to keep wool moving through the rabbit's system. Hay and birdseed days should not be employed for rabbits younger than 6 months or for pregnant or lactating does. It is also wise to discontinue this practice in winter to prevent the loss of condition and body heat when fewer calories are available.
Water is also extremely important to the health of any rabbit. Be sure to keep clean, fresh water available 24 hrs. a day, replacing and refilling it as often as necessary. A rabbit will refuse to eat without water to drink, so a thirsty rabbit is a starving rabbit. If you live in an area of harsh winters with frequent, below freezing temps, it is an excellent idea to switch to crocks during the coldest months for water access rather than water bottles. Crocks take longer to freeze, and rabbit who have water readily available in winter are less likely to lose weight and condition. Since they are also more likely to increase feed intake at this time of year to compensate for lower temperatures, they will desperately require more fluids.
Though not critically necessary to produce healthy babies, I also make crocks available year round to does and their litters to encourage adequate food and water intake. I often place several crocks and water bottles into one breeding cage at varying heights and positions to accommodate the doe and her babies, and assure that everyone gets an adequate amount of fluid.
BREEDING AND BABY CARE
French Angora does should be bred no earlier than 9 months, and no later than 1 year. Bucks are generally ready for breeding much earlier, from approx. 4 1/2 months. Before breeding, does and bucks should both be groomed, clipped and cleaned, (especially around the tail). If a doe is clipped before breeding she will have time to grow approx. 1 inch of wool during gestation, and will not pull wool for nestbuilding that is excessively long. 1 inch strands of wool are much less likely to entangle themselves around baby necks and feet, thereby reducing the risk of strangulation and loss of circulation in the extremities. A shorter coat will also provide a comfortable pregnancy for the doe, particularly if she is pregnant during the summer months.
To begin with, it is very important to check your calendar before planning any breeding. NEVER plan a due date for a day when you are out of town or otherwise unavailable should complications occur. It may also be a good idea (in the beginning) to plan for a weekday kindling should trips to the vet be warranted. On the day of the actual breeding, count 31 days forward from that day and mark your calendar with the due date immediately. This is not a time for faulty recordkeeping, as the lives of a doe's litter depend on your accurate calculations.
To breed, bring the doe to the buck's cage preferably in the morning. DO NOT leave the pair unattended while the act is taking place, because 1) you want to witness that the breeding has actually taken place and 2) you need to be available to separate buck and doe if the doe becomes hostile or if the buck attempts to breed the opposite end of her, etc. Once the buck has squealed and fallen off the doe, remove her from the cage immediately. Wait two hours and then repeat the breeding again with the same buck to prevent misses and assure that ovulation has taken place.
Feed pregnant does a normal ration (approx. 1 cup) up to the halfway point of the pregnancy. Increase ration to 1 1/2 cups at this point, if the doe will consume it. On day 24-25 it is possible to feel babies moving if you gently place two fingers on the doe's lower belly inside the hind leg. This method of determining pregnancy is not foolproof as a small litter can be impossible to feel, but if there are 5 or more kits in the litter it is often easy to feel them rolling and kicking at this stage. Additional signs of pregnancy to watch for are swollen nipples by day 15 on some does, and a harder lower stomach.
Place a nestbox in the doe's cage 5 days before the due date OR sooner if the doe is carrying hay around the cage and seems ready to build a nest. Do not place the box over the toilet area of the cage, but in a corner that best affords privacy without interfering with bodily functions. Use metal nestboxes rather than wooden ones which can harbor bacteria, and be certain to thoroughly clean and disinfect it before use. Remove the bottom of the metal box (if it has one) and line it with 2 or 3 layers of cardboard to facilitate good drainage, along with several layers of newspaper and large amounts of hay for the doe to arrange as she sees fit. In addition to hay in the nestbox itself, provide piles of it on the floor of the cage for the expectant doe to carry in and out as she wishes. Either before or directly after kindling she will also pull wool from her belly and dewlap to line the nest and cover her litter.
Once a doe has kindled (usually the 31st day), wait until she seems calm and offer her a treat as you remove the box to examine it's contents somewhere out of view. If the weather is cold, it is best to bring the box indoors while you clean it and count babies. Remove all kits to a bowl lined with wool and remove all soiled nesting material and afterbirth from the box. Inspect babies for birth injuries or defects, then replace nesting material into the nestbox in order. Layer wool into the bottom of a bowl-shaped depression of hay, lay babies in the bowl no more than 2 kits deep, and place extra wool on top. BEFORE replacing wool, it is a good idea to snip it into 1/4 inch pieces with a scissor to prevent strings from winding around baby necks and legs. Store the nestbox in a quiet room or carrier during the day, especially in winter, and take it out to the doe very early each morning and evening for nursing. Place the box quietly into her cage and step off to the side for approx. 20 minutes while she jumps in and feeds the kits. Wait for her to finish and jump out, then remove the box and take it inside. Since kits only need to nurse once or twice per day for 5-10 minutes, this method of keeping a litter safe during the day (and night) is a good idea. During Spring and Summer, another option is to take the box indoors at night only, leaving it with the doe all day for her to care for as she sees fit. While a good mother can usually be trusted to take excellent care of her litter, it helps to have the box nearby in the first 2 weeks to check often for dead or entangled kits, and to keep babies from getting dragged out of the nest accidentally. This management technique also makes it easier to ensure that kits have had enough milk after each feeding. Baby bellies should be fat and a visible "milk line" should show that the stomach is indeed full. If some of the smaller kits have been squeezed out of the feeding, try taking the doe out several hours later to allow the kits to get an extra feeding for several days until they catch up. If this doesn't work, a prepared formula can be given with an eyedropper, or you can simply let nature take its course in determining which kits survive.
Keep the doe's feed at 1 1/2 cups until 2-3 days after delivery, then GRADUALLY increase it over the course of 2 weeks until the doe is free fed. Slowly add 1-2 T. of old fashioned oats to her ration as well, beginning 5-8 days after delivery. If a litter is small (4 babies or less), maintain a ration of 1 1/2 cups WITHOUT increase, and do not add oats or milk supplement to her feed.
Clean the nestbox once every 3-4 days if you have a large litter, or as often as needed. Be careful to remove and replace soiled, wet bedding, and old hay. Always keep fresh hay available in the box since kits as young as several days old have been observed nibbling on stalks of it.
At 10-12 days of age, the kits' eyes should begin to open. If they have not opened on their own by the 12th day, take a cotton ball soaked in warm water and gently wipe each eye from corner to corner before opening them yourself. Repeat this activity if the eyes get reglued, but all babies should soon be wide-eyed and ready to begin exploring the nest. Once the eyes open it is a good idea to place a pinch (1 tsp.) of old fashioned oats directly into the nest each day for babies to nibble on. Most will consume them heartily.
At 2 weeks of age it becomes more and more difficult to transport a box of jumpy babies outdoors every morning, so give them back to the doe full time at this point. They will need her to show them how to drink and eat adult food, and they will soon be ready to begin exploring the cage. At approx. 3 weeks, curiosity gets the better of them and babies begin hopping (or falling) out of the nestbox on their own. Pad the cage floor with hay at this point to prevent little feet from falling through the wire, and change the padding daily leaving the toilet area open. If bunnies have difficulty getting back into the box once they come out, extra hay can be placed in front of it to form an extra "step" for them to climb on. Once they begin abandoning the nest be sure to provide plenty of extra feed and water bottles in the cage.
At 3-3 1/2 weeks you are ready to remove the nestbox entirely. If it seems necessary, take nest material out of the box and place it in a corner of the cage for babies to continue to sleep on. If does are outdoors and temps. are below 35 degrees it may be necessary to clip a 60 watt lightbulb 6 inches from the top of the cage for added warmth on cold nights. Keep the bulb on day and night until babies are fully furred and warm enough to do without it.
By 6-8 weeks, French Angora babies are ready to be weaned. Begin the process by removing the biggest kits, 2 at a time, and transferring them to weaning cages (any cage 24X30 or larger). Keep pairs together until approx. 9 weeks of age, but no longer than 10 weeks. Cut the doe back to 1/4 feed once all babies are removed and 1/3 the amount of water for 3 days to dry up her milk supply, and supplement with milk-reducing herbs such as mint and sage. Once weaned, continue free feeding babies until 5 1/2-6 months of age. Do not supplement them with regular grain mix before the 12th week, but parsley and dandelions can be fed SPARINGLY from 12 weeks on.
To begin with, it is very important to check your calendar before planning any breeding. NEVER plan a due date for a day when you are out of town or otherwise unavailable should complications occur. It may also be a good idea (in the beginning) to plan for a weekday kindling should trips to the vet be warranted. On the day of the actual breeding, count 31 days forward from that day and mark your calendar with the due date immediately. This is not a time for faulty recordkeeping, as the lives of a doe's litter depend on your accurate calculations.
To breed, bring the doe to the buck's cage preferably in the morning. DO NOT leave the pair unattended while the act is taking place, because 1) you want to witness that the breeding has actually taken place and 2) you need to be available to separate buck and doe if the doe becomes hostile or if the buck attempts to breed the opposite end of her, etc. Once the buck has squealed and fallen off the doe, remove her from the cage immediately. Wait two hours and then repeat the breeding again with the same buck to prevent misses and assure that ovulation has taken place.
Feed pregnant does a normal ration (approx. 1 cup) up to the halfway point of the pregnancy. Increase ration to 1 1/2 cups at this point, if the doe will consume it. On day 24-25 it is possible to feel babies moving if you gently place two fingers on the doe's lower belly inside the hind leg. This method of determining pregnancy is not foolproof as a small litter can be impossible to feel, but if there are 5 or more kits in the litter it is often easy to feel them rolling and kicking at this stage. Additional signs of pregnancy to watch for are swollen nipples by day 15 on some does, and a harder lower stomach.
Place a nestbox in the doe's cage 5 days before the due date OR sooner if the doe is carrying hay around the cage and seems ready to build a nest. Do not place the box over the toilet area of the cage, but in a corner that best affords privacy without interfering with bodily functions. Use metal nestboxes rather than wooden ones which can harbor bacteria, and be certain to thoroughly clean and disinfect it before use. Remove the bottom of the metal box (if it has one) and line it with 2 or 3 layers of cardboard to facilitate good drainage, along with several layers of newspaper and large amounts of hay for the doe to arrange as she sees fit. In addition to hay in the nestbox itself, provide piles of it on the floor of the cage for the expectant doe to carry in and out as she wishes. Either before or directly after kindling she will also pull wool from her belly and dewlap to line the nest and cover her litter.
Once a doe has kindled (usually the 31st day), wait until she seems calm and offer her a treat as you remove the box to examine it's contents somewhere out of view. If the weather is cold, it is best to bring the box indoors while you clean it and count babies. Remove all kits to a bowl lined with wool and remove all soiled nesting material and afterbirth from the box. Inspect babies for birth injuries or defects, then replace nesting material into the nestbox in order. Layer wool into the bottom of a bowl-shaped depression of hay, lay babies in the bowl no more than 2 kits deep, and place extra wool on top. BEFORE replacing wool, it is a good idea to snip it into 1/4 inch pieces with a scissor to prevent strings from winding around baby necks and legs. Store the nestbox in a quiet room or carrier during the day, especially in winter, and take it out to the doe very early each morning and evening for nursing. Place the box quietly into her cage and step off to the side for approx. 20 minutes while she jumps in and feeds the kits. Wait for her to finish and jump out, then remove the box and take it inside. Since kits only need to nurse once or twice per day for 5-10 minutes, this method of keeping a litter safe during the day (and night) is a good idea. During Spring and Summer, another option is to take the box indoors at night only, leaving it with the doe all day for her to care for as she sees fit. While a good mother can usually be trusted to take excellent care of her litter, it helps to have the box nearby in the first 2 weeks to check often for dead or entangled kits, and to keep babies from getting dragged out of the nest accidentally. This management technique also makes it easier to ensure that kits have had enough milk after each feeding. Baby bellies should be fat and a visible "milk line" should show that the stomach is indeed full. If some of the smaller kits have been squeezed out of the feeding, try taking the doe out several hours later to allow the kits to get an extra feeding for several days until they catch up. If this doesn't work, a prepared formula can be given with an eyedropper, or you can simply let nature take its course in determining which kits survive.
Keep the doe's feed at 1 1/2 cups until 2-3 days after delivery, then GRADUALLY increase it over the course of 2 weeks until the doe is free fed. Slowly add 1-2 T. of old fashioned oats to her ration as well, beginning 5-8 days after delivery. If a litter is small (4 babies or less), maintain a ration of 1 1/2 cups WITHOUT increase, and do not add oats or milk supplement to her feed.
Clean the nestbox once every 3-4 days if you have a large litter, or as often as needed. Be careful to remove and replace soiled, wet bedding, and old hay. Always keep fresh hay available in the box since kits as young as several days old have been observed nibbling on stalks of it.
At 10-12 days of age, the kits' eyes should begin to open. If they have not opened on their own by the 12th day, take a cotton ball soaked in warm water and gently wipe each eye from corner to corner before opening them yourself. Repeat this activity if the eyes get reglued, but all babies should soon be wide-eyed and ready to begin exploring the nest. Once the eyes open it is a good idea to place a pinch (1 tsp.) of old fashioned oats directly into the nest each day for babies to nibble on. Most will consume them heartily.
At 2 weeks of age it becomes more and more difficult to transport a box of jumpy babies outdoors every morning, so give them back to the doe full time at this point. They will need her to show them how to drink and eat adult food, and they will soon be ready to begin exploring the cage. At approx. 3 weeks, curiosity gets the better of them and babies begin hopping (or falling) out of the nestbox on their own. Pad the cage floor with hay at this point to prevent little feet from falling through the wire, and change the padding daily leaving the toilet area open. If bunnies have difficulty getting back into the box once they come out, extra hay can be placed in front of it to form an extra "step" for them to climb on. Once they begin abandoning the nest be sure to provide plenty of extra feed and water bottles in the cage.
At 3-3 1/2 weeks you are ready to remove the nestbox entirely. If it seems necessary, take nest material out of the box and place it in a corner of the cage for babies to continue to sleep on. If does are outdoors and temps. are below 35 degrees it may be necessary to clip a 60 watt lightbulb 6 inches from the top of the cage for added warmth on cold nights. Keep the bulb on day and night until babies are fully furred and warm enough to do without it.
By 6-8 weeks, French Angora babies are ready to be weaned. Begin the process by removing the biggest kits, 2 at a time, and transferring them to weaning cages (any cage 24X30 or larger). Keep pairs together until approx. 9 weeks of age, but no longer than 10 weeks. Cut the doe back to 1/4 feed once all babies are removed and 1/3 the amount of water for 3 days to dry up her milk supply, and supplement with milk-reducing herbs such as mint and sage. Once weaned, continue free feeding babies until 5 1/2-6 months of age. Do not supplement them with regular grain mix before the 12th week, but parsley and dandelions can be fed SPARINGLY from 12 weeks on.
GROOMING
A French Angora rabbit should be groomed every 1-2 weeks. Giant and Satin Angoras should be groomed every week. Depending upon such factors as texture, age, sex and density, individuals will require grooming at different rates. A young rabbit with a soft junior coat should be groomed with a slicker brush every 4 days, while older rabbits may only require brushing every other week. Some bucks tend to spray and make a sticky mess of their coats rather quickly and require extra grooming as a result, while an angora in full coat can require more frequent attention as well. When feeding or otherwise carrying out your chores, make a point of feeling coats regularly to check for matts or webbed areas, and groom as needed. When selecting rabbits to groom for the show table, choose those with the longest, densest coats and begin blowing their coats out once every 10 days to separate fibers and prevent matts from forming. Reserve the blower ONLY for your longest, densest coats at the end of their growing cycles, and ONLY for when it is no longer possible to get to the base of the coat with the slicker brush. Once you begin a pattern of blowing an angora coat before it is mature you open up follicles in the hair shaft and cause the wool to matt more quickly. 'Oil sacs' are also located at the end of each hair follicle which can be damaged or broken off with excessive blowing, so be cautious with your use of the blower to maintain your coats in prime condition. Once a blowing schedule is begun, a breeder must commit to blowing the coat every 10 days until harvest, to avoid severe tangling.
To begin a grooming session with the slicker brush, turn the rabbit over to nestle in the crook of your knees as you sit on the floor with legs stretched out in front of you. Be certain never to let the rabbit's head dangle at a lower level than it's body. Gently brush the chest area, dewlap, stomach, insides of legs, armpits, and private area. Clip toenails or wool around the private area if necessary at this time. Turn the rabbit right side up on your lap and begin work on the top coat. Begin by brushing individual layers at the base of the coat up towards the top, moving one layer at a time upward until the top of the spine is reached. Turn the rabbit around and repeat the brushing process on the other side, working slowly up to the top of the rabbit. Repeat at the base of the tail, working your way up to the back again. When finished, place the rabbit on the grooming table and flick the top coat lightly with the brush to make it puff up slightly without standing straight up.
If using the blower, brush the underside of the rabbit by hand as described above, then place the rabbit atop the grooming table and aim the force of the blower 6 inches away from the coat beginning just above the tail. Cover the eyes and ears with your free hand. Proceed slowly up the back of the rabbit toward the top, concentrating on webbed areas with the nozzle until they "melt" apart. Work your way around both sides up to and including the dewlap. Blow wool "upward" to create a fluffed-up effect, then turn it off and use the slicker to flick off remaining loose fluff and smooth the coat down before presentation.
How do you know when your angora is ready to molt it's coat? Every 5-6 months you will begin to find more and more wool coming off on the slicker brush during grooming sessions, indicating that the coat is ready to release. Strands and clumps of wool will be found on the floor of the cage and the rabbit will begin to have pills and loose, long strands draped across the top and sides of it's body, and wool trailing out from under the tail. At this point, your bunny will begin to eat less, or go off feed entirely. This is an indication that it is time to remove the coat.
Some breeders employ the use of electric shearing clippers which are fast and efficient but take time to gain experience with. Others simply use scissors. To clip an angora using the scissoring technique, place the animal on the grooming table and take out your slicker brush and small scissor (Fiskar's childrens' scissors work well). Part the coat at the spine and brush both sides down neatly. Beginning at the top of one side insert the scissor through a THIN layer of wool and snip once. Be certain to lift the blades of the scissor to a perpendicular position before cutting to avoid clipping skin, then continue clipping thin layers across from the top to the bottom of the rabbit. Have two bags or containers on hand to store wool in as you clip---one for waste wool (underbelly and anything less than 3 inches) and one for prime wool (back and sides--min. 3 in. length). By cutting thin layers you minimize the likelihood of second cuts, and harvest your rabbit more efficiently.
Once the back and sides are complete, turn the rabbit over and carefully clip the underside. Be very careful not to accidentally clip nipples, private areas, or insides of legs. I normally clip the longest wool and leave the underside slightly longer to avoid accidents, as this wool is unusable to the handspinner anyway.
It is advisable to remove coats carefully during very cold weather and try to time your clippings (if possible) to the warmest times of the year. If you must remove a coat during the dead of winter try removing it gradually (top first, then bottom a day or two later) to avoid sending the animal into shock. Another option in the winter is just to leave more wool on the rabbit (an inch or so) rather than taking it completely down to the skin. If you feel as though your angora is cold after a clipping during the cold months, set a bottomless nestbox filled with hay into the corner for her to sit in during the night. Once you remove a coat, you will not have to groom an angora for the next 3-4 weeks, after which you should resume your regular grooming schedule.
To begin a grooming session with the slicker brush, turn the rabbit over to nestle in the crook of your knees as you sit on the floor with legs stretched out in front of you. Be certain never to let the rabbit's head dangle at a lower level than it's body. Gently brush the chest area, dewlap, stomach, insides of legs, armpits, and private area. Clip toenails or wool around the private area if necessary at this time. Turn the rabbit right side up on your lap and begin work on the top coat. Begin by brushing individual layers at the base of the coat up towards the top, moving one layer at a time upward until the top of the spine is reached. Turn the rabbit around and repeat the brushing process on the other side, working slowly up to the top of the rabbit. Repeat at the base of the tail, working your way up to the back again. When finished, place the rabbit on the grooming table and flick the top coat lightly with the brush to make it puff up slightly without standing straight up.
If using the blower, brush the underside of the rabbit by hand as described above, then place the rabbit atop the grooming table and aim the force of the blower 6 inches away from the coat beginning just above the tail. Cover the eyes and ears with your free hand. Proceed slowly up the back of the rabbit toward the top, concentrating on webbed areas with the nozzle until they "melt" apart. Work your way around both sides up to and including the dewlap. Blow wool "upward" to create a fluffed-up effect, then turn it off and use the slicker to flick off remaining loose fluff and smooth the coat down before presentation.
How do you know when your angora is ready to molt it's coat? Every 5-6 months you will begin to find more and more wool coming off on the slicker brush during grooming sessions, indicating that the coat is ready to release. Strands and clumps of wool will be found on the floor of the cage and the rabbit will begin to have pills and loose, long strands draped across the top and sides of it's body, and wool trailing out from under the tail. At this point, your bunny will begin to eat less, or go off feed entirely. This is an indication that it is time to remove the coat.
Some breeders employ the use of electric shearing clippers which are fast and efficient but take time to gain experience with. Others simply use scissors. To clip an angora using the scissoring technique, place the animal on the grooming table and take out your slicker brush and small scissor (Fiskar's childrens' scissors work well). Part the coat at the spine and brush both sides down neatly. Beginning at the top of one side insert the scissor through a THIN layer of wool and snip once. Be certain to lift the blades of the scissor to a perpendicular position before cutting to avoid clipping skin, then continue clipping thin layers across from the top to the bottom of the rabbit. Have two bags or containers on hand to store wool in as you clip---one for waste wool (underbelly and anything less than 3 inches) and one for prime wool (back and sides--min. 3 in. length). By cutting thin layers you minimize the likelihood of second cuts, and harvest your rabbit more efficiently.
Once the back and sides are complete, turn the rabbit over and carefully clip the underside. Be very careful not to accidentally clip nipples, private areas, or insides of legs. I normally clip the longest wool and leave the underside slightly longer to avoid accidents, as this wool is unusable to the handspinner anyway.
It is advisable to remove coats carefully during very cold weather and try to time your clippings (if possible) to the warmest times of the year. If you must remove a coat during the dead of winter try removing it gradually (top first, then bottom a day or two later) to avoid sending the animal into shock. Another option in the winter is just to leave more wool on the rabbit (an inch or so) rather than taking it completely down to the skin. If you feel as though your angora is cold after a clipping during the cold months, set a bottomless nestbox filled with hay into the corner for her to sit in during the night. Once you remove a coat, you will not have to groom an angora for the next 3-4 weeks, after which you should resume your regular grooming schedule.
HOUSING
Adult French, Giant, and Satin angoras require cage space measuring at least 30X30 inches. Cages can be purchased in pre-cut 'kits' from cage companies or built from scratch using rolls of correctly sized wire mesh and cage clips. Breeding does require a larger space of 30X36 inches, while bucks are well suited to a 30X30 inch size. I have several stacks of 30X24 inch cages that I often use for weaning. I place 2 babies at a time in each cage of that size, then separate and transfer them to larger cages permanently at 10 weeks of age.
Rabbits should be housed in a building that is draft-free but provides an excellent exchange of air through means of vents or exhaust fans. In warmer areas some breeders rely upon air conditioning units to keep angoras cool and maintain even temperatures for wool growth. Whatever system one chooses for housing one's herd, they must be certain that it provides adequate space per rabbit, good ventilation, and secure protection from rain, snow, and harsh wind.
Rabbits should be housed in a building that is draft-free but provides an excellent exchange of air through means of vents or exhaust fans. In warmer areas some breeders rely upon air conditioning units to keep angoras cool and maintain even temperatures for wool growth. Whatever system one chooses for housing one's herd, they must be certain that it provides adequate space per rabbit, good ventilation, and secure protection from rain, snow, and harsh wind.
HEALTH ISSUES
In addition to woolblock, there are various medical conditions which can affect the angora rabbit and virtually any rabbit breed. If in doubt as to the nature of your rabbit's condition seek out a good vet with experience in treating exotics. In the meantime, here are several common ailments and suggestions about what can be done to alleviate them.
1) FUR MITES--These tend to proliferate under warm, humid conditions (in summer), or after shows where infected rabbits have come into contact with one another. They are evidenced by white "flakes" in the wool that resemble dandruff, and are seen as oily, sticky matts on the rabbit in more advanced cases. Bald spots and crusty skin may result if the condition is not dealt with early enough, rendering a coat useless for showing or fiber purposes.
The most effective treatment for ear and fur mites in angora rabbits is a product called Ivomec, developed for use on livestock but not yet approved for use on rabbits. To dose a rabbit with mites using this treatment, weigh the animal and multiply it's weight x 0.018 to arrive at a proper dosage. Using a 1.00cc syringe, draw up the measured amount of Ivomec liquid, remove the needle from the end and squeeze the dose into the rabbit orally. Repeat the dosage 2 weeks later if the case is acute. If you are administering Ivomec preventatively, dose your herd every 4-6 weeks for protection at shows and during the summer months. Make a point of disinfecting cages, feed dishes and grooming tools periodically also, to keep mites under control in the rabbitry.
2) COCCIDIOSIS--Coccidiosis is a parasite affecting mostly very young and very old rabbits. It occurs through contact of the rabbit with its own feces when the oocysts have had 24 hours or more to sporulate. Prevention involves frequent cleaning of cages to minimize contact of animals with infected droppings and occasional dosage with a drug such as Corid, a powdered sulfa formulation administered through the drinking water 3-4 times a year.
Symptoms of Coccidiosis include sudden severe weight loss despite continued good appetite, diarrhea, pot belly, and poor coat and body condition. Sometimes there are no symptoms at all, which is why it is important to treat your herd preventatively several times a year.
3) SNUFFLES (PASTEURELLA)--Snuffles is perhaps the most feared rabbit disease among breeders and pet owners alike. There is no known cure or vaccine, and the only permanent solution for this condition is to have the infected rabbit humanely put down. Snuffles may be treated with antibiotics, but the treatment will only mask the symptoms without actually curing the disease. At the first signs of stress (reproductive or environmental) the symptoms resurface, often developing into pneumonia or other secondary infections while the rest of the herd is continually exposed to the bacteria.
Symptoms of pasteurella include sneezing with a COLORED discharge (white, green or yellow), labored breathing, rattling in the chest, runny eyes, and a generally sick demeanor. If you suspect your angora of having developed this condition remove it from the rabbitry immediately and disinfect ALL cages, feed dishes, and any surface the infected animal has come into contact with. Change your clothing and wash hands thoroughly, monitoring the condition of your herd for several weeks and months thereafter to note the presence of pasteurella symptoms elsewhere. If you should begin to note symptoms in other rabbits, repeat the above mentioned procedure. The best defense against snuffles is a clean environment, good ventilation, and a healthy immune system. Clean and disinfect the rabbitry often, and select for stock that is hardy and strong to keep this bacterium down to a minimum.
1) FUR MITES--These tend to proliferate under warm, humid conditions (in summer), or after shows where infected rabbits have come into contact with one another. They are evidenced by white "flakes" in the wool that resemble dandruff, and are seen as oily, sticky matts on the rabbit in more advanced cases. Bald spots and crusty skin may result if the condition is not dealt with early enough, rendering a coat useless for showing or fiber purposes.
The most effective treatment for ear and fur mites in angora rabbits is a product called Ivomec, developed for use on livestock but not yet approved for use on rabbits. To dose a rabbit with mites using this treatment, weigh the animal and multiply it's weight x 0.018 to arrive at a proper dosage. Using a 1.00cc syringe, draw up the measured amount of Ivomec liquid, remove the needle from the end and squeeze the dose into the rabbit orally. Repeat the dosage 2 weeks later if the case is acute. If you are administering Ivomec preventatively, dose your herd every 4-6 weeks for protection at shows and during the summer months. Make a point of disinfecting cages, feed dishes and grooming tools periodically also, to keep mites under control in the rabbitry.
2) COCCIDIOSIS--Coccidiosis is a parasite affecting mostly very young and very old rabbits. It occurs through contact of the rabbit with its own feces when the oocysts have had 24 hours or more to sporulate. Prevention involves frequent cleaning of cages to minimize contact of animals with infected droppings and occasional dosage with a drug such as Corid, a powdered sulfa formulation administered through the drinking water 3-4 times a year.
Symptoms of Coccidiosis include sudden severe weight loss despite continued good appetite, diarrhea, pot belly, and poor coat and body condition. Sometimes there are no symptoms at all, which is why it is important to treat your herd preventatively several times a year.
3) SNUFFLES (PASTEURELLA)--Snuffles is perhaps the most feared rabbit disease among breeders and pet owners alike. There is no known cure or vaccine, and the only permanent solution for this condition is to have the infected rabbit humanely put down. Snuffles may be treated with antibiotics, but the treatment will only mask the symptoms without actually curing the disease. At the first signs of stress (reproductive or environmental) the symptoms resurface, often developing into pneumonia or other secondary infections while the rest of the herd is continually exposed to the bacteria.
Symptoms of pasteurella include sneezing with a COLORED discharge (white, green or yellow), labored breathing, rattling in the chest, runny eyes, and a generally sick demeanor. If you suspect your angora of having developed this condition remove it from the rabbitry immediately and disinfect ALL cages, feed dishes, and any surface the infected animal has come into contact with. Change your clothing and wash hands thoroughly, monitoring the condition of your herd for several weeks and months thereafter to note the presence of pasteurella symptoms elsewhere. If you should begin to note symptoms in other rabbits, repeat the above mentioned procedure. The best defense against snuffles is a clean environment, good ventilation, and a healthy immune system. Clean and disinfect the rabbitry often, and select for stock that is hardy and strong to keep this bacterium down to a minimum.
HERBS AND GREENS
The following is a list of herbs and green plants that are palatable and good for bunnies on a LIMITED basis. Never overfeed any of these greens as they may cause diahrrea if given in excess. A good rule of thumb for offering treats is approx. 2- 3 leaves/ pieces every other day. If you notice loose stools or diahrrea symptoms after feeding, stop greens immediately and reintroduce them gradually at a level that is acceptable to the individual rabbit. Some greens are suitable only for certain conditions at certain times, others may be taken on a regular basis, every other day.
DANDELIONS--Easy to find, palatable to most bunnies. High in vitamins and excellent source of Vitamin A (100 grams of dandelion contains approx. 14,000 IU). Detoxifies the body, strengthens the stomach and helps alleviate arthritis symptoms. A great invigorator and overall tonic. Helps cure woolblock, stimulate milk production in lactating does, and stimulate appetite in general. Good for indigestion. Can be used as sole diet for animals off feed, capable of sustaining life for weeks. Good for the skin, gastrointestinal and urinary systems, great for curing constipation. Can improve poor body condition due to anorexia. Good diuretic. Can be taken regularly and dried.
PARSLEY--One of the first greens that can be given to baby bunnies at 12 weeks of age. Excellent for support of the immune system, good digestion, soothing to stomach, anti-diahrreal, appetite stimulant, aid for woolblock, good source of calcium.
COMFREY--Good source of Vitamin A, good for pregnant does, supports immune system. Can be dried to cure "stickiness" to wool, positive stimulant for testes and ovaries, good for bruises (breaks down red blood cells). Good for the stomach, inhibiting a prostaglandin causing inflammation of the stomach lining. Studies using comfrey leaves on rats indicated carcinogenic properties (when leaves made up 33% of the diet), but studies utilizing the entire plant (root, leaf and flower) showed an opposite effect. Avoid excessive consumption of this plant, but do feed occasionally.
DILL--Immune system support, good for fever, recuperation
MINT--(fresh or dried)-dries up lactating does after weaning (do NOT feed to actively nursing does), relieves indigestion.
PAPAYA--Good for digestion, dissolves woolblock symptoms
BLACKBERRY/ RASPBERRY/ STRAWBERRY LEAVES--Can be fed thorns and all, anti-diarrheal and anti-inflammatory (especially raspberry). Good tonic for the reproductive organs, excellent for feeding does before breeding and after the birthing process.
PLANTAIN--excellent overall tonic, good to feed along with dandelions on a regular basis. Excellent for stopping bleeding (place leaf on a cut), relieving stings and insect bites. Excellent topical astringent. Good for urinary system and helpful with diarrhea.
SAGE--Dries up lactating does.
FENNEL--Good for lactating does, good appetite stimulant. Leaves can be fed fresh.
LEMON BALM--good for heart and circulatory system, alleviates stress. Can make a tea with leaves to use in bunny water bottles for stress related symptoms. Good for nausea, diarrhea and flatulence, can be fed fresh before shows to calm bunnies and lessen stress.
BORAGE--stimulates milk production and helps with mild stress disorders. Both leaves and flowers can be used.
OREGANO--recent research in Germany indicates that this herb may be useful as a preventative and cure for Coccidia. Researchers suggest feeding the plant, leaves, and woody stems directly as the oregano oil has an antibacterial effect on the intestinal tract and is not broken down during normal digestive processes.
WILLOW--not an herb, but analgesic and anti-inflammatory---gentler on the stomach than aspirin.
GARLIC--general tonic and parasite repellant. Use sparingly due to blood thinning properties.
LAVENDER--stimulates the uterus, can jumpstart labor when a doe is overdue. Can be given safely in small amounts (a couple of sprigs) along with parsley after day 31 of pregnancy. Can also be given safely before due date, and will not harm a doe if she is not yet ready to give birth. Always feed in conjunction with parsley for maximum effect.
DANDELIONS--Easy to find, palatable to most bunnies. High in vitamins and excellent source of Vitamin A (100 grams of dandelion contains approx. 14,000 IU). Detoxifies the body, strengthens the stomach and helps alleviate arthritis symptoms. A great invigorator and overall tonic. Helps cure woolblock, stimulate milk production in lactating does, and stimulate appetite in general. Good for indigestion. Can be used as sole diet for animals off feed, capable of sustaining life for weeks. Good for the skin, gastrointestinal and urinary systems, great for curing constipation. Can improve poor body condition due to anorexia. Good diuretic. Can be taken regularly and dried.
PARSLEY--One of the first greens that can be given to baby bunnies at 12 weeks of age. Excellent for support of the immune system, good digestion, soothing to stomach, anti-diahrreal, appetite stimulant, aid for woolblock, good source of calcium.
COMFREY--Good source of Vitamin A, good for pregnant does, supports immune system. Can be dried to cure "stickiness" to wool, positive stimulant for testes and ovaries, good for bruises (breaks down red blood cells). Good for the stomach, inhibiting a prostaglandin causing inflammation of the stomach lining. Studies using comfrey leaves on rats indicated carcinogenic properties (when leaves made up 33% of the diet), but studies utilizing the entire plant (root, leaf and flower) showed an opposite effect. Avoid excessive consumption of this plant, but do feed occasionally.
DILL--Immune system support, good for fever, recuperation
MINT--(fresh or dried)-dries up lactating does after weaning (do NOT feed to actively nursing does), relieves indigestion.
PAPAYA--Good for digestion, dissolves woolblock symptoms
BLACKBERRY/ RASPBERRY/ STRAWBERRY LEAVES--Can be fed thorns and all, anti-diarrheal and anti-inflammatory (especially raspberry). Good tonic for the reproductive organs, excellent for feeding does before breeding and after the birthing process.
PLANTAIN--excellent overall tonic, good to feed along with dandelions on a regular basis. Excellent for stopping bleeding (place leaf on a cut), relieving stings and insect bites. Excellent topical astringent. Good for urinary system and helpful with diarrhea.
SAGE--Dries up lactating does.
FENNEL--Good for lactating does, good appetite stimulant. Leaves can be fed fresh.
LEMON BALM--good for heart and circulatory system, alleviates stress. Can make a tea with leaves to use in bunny water bottles for stress related symptoms. Good for nausea, diarrhea and flatulence, can be fed fresh before shows to calm bunnies and lessen stress.
BORAGE--stimulates milk production and helps with mild stress disorders. Both leaves and flowers can be used.
OREGANO--recent research in Germany indicates that this herb may be useful as a preventative and cure for Coccidia. Researchers suggest feeding the plant, leaves, and woody stems directly as the oregano oil has an antibacterial effect on the intestinal tract and is not broken down during normal digestive processes.
WILLOW--not an herb, but analgesic and anti-inflammatory---gentler on the stomach than aspirin.
GARLIC--general tonic and parasite repellant. Use sparingly due to blood thinning properties.
LAVENDER--stimulates the uterus, can jumpstart labor when a doe is overdue. Can be given safely in small amounts (a couple of sprigs) along with parsley after day 31 of pregnancy. Can also be given safely before due date, and will not harm a doe if she is not yet ready to give birth. Always feed in conjunction with parsley for maximum effect.
